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Prada's A/W 2025 Collection: A Radical Reinterpretation of Glamour
In February 2025, the fashion world was treated to a radical reinterpretation of glamour with Prada's A/W 2025 collection, titled 'Raw Glamour'. Presented in Milan, the collection was a joint effort by co-creative directors Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada.
The collection was an exploration of the question, 'What do we retain of femininity? Does it help in this really dangerous moment?' according to Mrs Prada. She further elucidated that to her, glamour is an interior point of view, and it's about feeling important.
The longtime fascination with the Italian bourgeoisie, particularly that of her native Milan, appeared in a mood of dishevelled decadence. The nipped, ladylike contours of 1960s dresses were sized up and torn away, replaced by fur coats with strange protrusions, high-heeled pumps with raw seams, queasy floral prints, and blouses with creases and adornments. Brooches, stoles, and bullet bra tops inspired by the 1950s bombshell, with sharply pointed chests, also featured prominently.
Each look in the collection was captured on a grand staircase, a location commonly used in film and literature for sweeping entrances and dramatic departures. The collection's looks interrogate notions of glamour and delight in contradictions, capturing both its seductive appeal and its power to disrupt and confront.
Meanwhile, at Fendi, a collection of irreverent Roman glamour featured fur coats constructed from shearling, dyed to look like fox, mink, or sable. At Acne Studios, the collection featured leggy Helmut Newton-esque glamazons clashing with the cocooning dress codes of northern Sweden.
At Valentino, a collection featured a simulacrum of a red-walled public toilet with layers of lace, ruffles, and bows. Miu Miu's A/W 2025 collection, titled 'an evaluation of the feminine', was presented at the Palais d'Iéna wrapped in yellow-green moiré.
At Marni, the collection featured a heady take on the salon show with models wandering through a hand-drawn imagining of a Milanese café. The collection included mannish overcoats, strangely folded at the chest and slumped along the shoulder line.
Miuccia Prada took over the family label Prada in 1978, and since then, has been a trailblazer in the fashion industry. The goal, as stated by Raf Simons and Mrs Prada, was to make clothes that a woman can wear in the current difficult time, while making elements of glamour 'bold and powerful', stripped of cliché but not of appeal.
A version of this story appears in the September 2025 Style Issue of the website.
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